BEATS AND EATS: Prince Edward Island a music and foodie-lover’s paradise

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The Montreal-based indie rock band Half Moon Run had just taken the stage and was maybe a song or two into their Sommo Festival set when frontman Devon Portielje informed the crowd that it was the band’s first time playing on Prince Edward Island.

I was surprised to learn that an established Canadian band that has been active for 15 years had not gigged on the island until now.

It was at that moment, however, that I reflected on the fact that I was in the same boat (minus the stuff about being a member of an awesome rock ‘n’ roll band). Despite being active as a human since 1980 and fairly well-travelled, I had likewise never before played on the island.

So, we all got to it. Half Moon Run made up for lost time with a blistering set on the main stage while Sommo Festival served as a kickoff to a memorable three-day visit for this island newbie.

P.E.I., like Sommo Festival, offers something for everyone.

The landscape appears just as Lucy Maud Montgomery described in her classic novel Anne of Green Gables (rolling green landscapes, pristine bays, cliffs as red as Anne’s hair and endless beaches and Gulf of St. Lawrence coastline). With space to roam and vistas galore, the scenery is exceptional and reason enough to make the trip.

The food? A seafood lover’s dream — some of the best we’ve had anywhere. (Visiting during one of the island’s two lobster seasons didn’t hurt our cause.) Know that offerings are abundant beyond the seafood and the island’s other staple, potatoes. We would return for the food alone.

History buffs will gravitate to Charlottetown, the birthplace of Confederation, road-trippers will love the easy coastal drives throughout our country’s smallest province, and everyone will receive a welcoming vibe from the big-hearted locals on the island, which is easily accessed by air, bridge or ferry.

Those who dig music, food and scenery can experience it all in one place over two days when Sommo Festival returns to the resort town of Cavendish in 2025 with organizers aiming to stage the third annual event once again in September.

Come to the island for the singing bands, stay for the Singing Sands (it’s a thing, we’ll explain momentarily).

Of course, don’t forget to adhere to the words of famous islander Stompin’ Tom Connors and enjoy a spud from the bright red mud while you’re here.

The pure white sand at Basin Head Provincial Park along the Points East Coastal Drive has high silica content, producing a high-pitched squeaking sound when beachgoers step on it.

It’s a unique experience and the beach is world-class and a must-visit, but we preferred the sounds at Sommo Festival, a summer celebration of music, food and drink in Cavendish, next door to Green Gables Heritage Place.

The two-day festival showcases established and emerging music and culinary talent and drew upwards of 40,000 people in its second rendition.

“P.E.I. is a great spot to visit 12 months a year but … September, obviously it’s 25 degrees here, it’s a beautiful month,” Ben Murphy, CEO of Charlottetown-based Whitecap Entertainment, said side stage during a break in the performances.

“It’s just a great way to extend the season for all the tourism operators,” he added of the festival.

Whitecap Entertainment produces festivals and events in Atlantic Canada, including the popular Cavendish Beach Music Festival. Murphy said this year’s Sommo fest, which featured Maren Morris, folksy superstar Noah Kahan, Greta Van Fleet, Toronto’s The Beaches and Ottawa’s Talk, was a massive attraction beyond the island — 80% of its audience came from outside the province.

A willingness from music and sports fans to travel is well-documented and Sommo Festival is no exception with the extra reward being the unique island setting.

“The hospitality is unmatched. We hear that all the time,” Murphy said. “Whether that’s at the gas station, restaurant or the security guards here.”

Previous performers have included Mumford & Sons, Maggie Rogers, Lord Huron and Vance Joy.

When an islander heading home on our plane talked about Richard’s Fresh Seafood having the best fish and chips “on the planet,” this eavesdropping reporter made a mental note to get there.

Less than 24 hours after landing, we were at the island institution’s Covehead Wharf fish shack demolishing what can only be described as the best fish and chips on the planet (panko-breaded, lightly fried and perfectly flaky with a side of dill and sun-dried tomato tartar sauce).

We had a lobster roll at Richard’s, too, because there’s no such thing as too much seafood. That roll, piled high with fresh P.E.I. lobster and just the right amount of mayo, was perhaps the best one we’ve tried anywhere (and we’ve tried many throughout Atlantic Canada and beyond). We enjoyed a lobster roll on each day of this three-day trip, all in the name of research, of course.

P.E.I. is known as “Canada’s Food Island” and it has earned that title.

For those interested in oysters but unfamiliar with the process, Julio’s Seafood Market in St. Peters Bay is an optimal place to get your feet wet. Toronto-raised owner Julio Sanchez gives an educational lesson on oysters, including how to shuck them and what factors into their variation in taste.

“When you smell a good oyster, it’s going to smell like the ocean,” Sanchez said. “When you smell a bad oyster, it’s going to smell rotten.”

We tried three varieties from three different regions of the island while Sanchez had us laughing at his jokes including one about a “shellphone.”

Head to Casa Mia By The Sea in Victoria-by-the-Sea for great seafood options and a waterfront view, then hit up one of six Cows locations on the island for what is referred to by some to be the best ice cream in the world. We visited two locations, including one for breakfast, again all in the name of research.

We also enjoyed seafood at Dave’s Lobster and Clam Diggers, the former on Peake’s Wharf in Charlottetown and the latter in the village of Cardigan to the east, serving excellent mussels, which is practically a food group on the island.

In Charlottetown, go to the Founders’ Food Hall & Market for a great selection of food and artisan shops. Try the small-batch potato fudge at Oh Fudge! It’s gluten-free and they tell us there is no extra sugar added. It’s tasty.

French fries and other potato-forward dishes are everywhere, no surprise given that the island is the country’s largest producer of spuds, producing about 25% of Canada’s potatoes annually.

Within our first few hours on the island, we shucked oysters, ate a lobster roll and had Cows ice cream. It’s the kind of trifecta every visitor should pursue.

Mysa Nordic Spa & Resort is the only spa of its kind on the island. Guests can unwind on a seven-acre property with stunning views of St. Peters Bay.

The thermal experience is inspired by the ancient Scandinavian ritual that alternates between hot, cold and rest. Massage treatments and overnight accommodations are also available.

The undisputed highlight of our visit, however, was the food. Award-winning chef Seth Shaw is doing remarkable things at Mysa. Our incredible dinner started with snow peas and lobster toast before fall-off-the-bone beef short rib and scallops that couldn’t have been seared any more perfectly, all accompanied by potatoes, naturally. We capped our meal with a delicious frozen s’mores dessert.

Breakfast the next morning — a fruit smoothie with activated charcoal for my wife and a chorizo western sandwich for me — was equally memorable.

The restaurant focuses on seasonal local ingredients (there’s a greenhouse on the property). It’s open year-round, as is the spa.

We’re still not entirely sure what a parabolic dune system is, but it’s apparently quite rare in North America. Essentially, it’s a dune system that moves with the weather, either over a long or short period. Having visited the Greenwich section of P.E.I. National Park, we can say it’s quite stunning. We had the place nearly to ourselves one morning as we enjoyed an hour-long hike that included a massive floating boardwalk leading to a seemingly untouched beach area.

Greenwich was our first activity during our day exploring the Points East Coastal Drive, a 475-km stretch highlighted by 50 beaches just minutes apart as well as lighthouses (including East Point Lighthouse, built in 1867 and known as Canada’s Confederation Lighthouse) and treks through villages including Georgetown and Montague.

Make time for a stop at What’s the Scoop? for an overwhelming selection of ice cream treats. (I tried the black licorice milkshake because, apparently, I’m 80 years old. The shake was awesome.)

While our Legendary Lobster Haul excursion was cancelled due to high winds, the activity would be a great fit for anyone wanting to experience a day in the life of a lobster fisher on the island. Guests search for buoys, learn to use the navigational system and try their hand at catching cod and mackerel, all under the guidance of a generational lobster fisher.

The Great George is ideally situated in the heart of Charlottetown and steeped in history. The boutique property featuring 54 suites among 17 restored heritage buildings was built in 1846. As part of the hotel’s sustainability program, guests can opt to “go green” by foregoing housekeeping services and receive a $10 gift card valid at all Murphy Hospitality Group locations. A full breakfast spread is included with each stay.

We flew direct from Toronto Pearson International Airport to Charlottetown airport with Air Canada and rented a vehicle through Avis/Budget. Non-stop flights are offered by many major airports in Canada. Visitors can also drive across the Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick or take a ferry from Nova Scotia.

For more information, visit tourismpei.com.

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On X: @IanShantz