Jesse Mulligan reflects on his stay at the uber-luxe Ritz-Carlton Kyoto

The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto promises an extraordinary stay, combining exquisite design, luxury amenities, and the finest Japanese hospitality. Photo / Ritz Carlton Kyoto
Viva’s dining out editor, Jesse Mulligan, tries the dedicated concierge and Japanese breakfast at the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Kyoto in Japan.
Getting there: Auckland to Tokyo direct with Air New Zealand, then a shinkansen “bullet train” to Kyoto (just over two hours and straight past Mt Fuji). The hotel is a 20 minute drive from the station by cab and similar on public transport.
Check-in experience: A devoted staff member walks you to a comfortable booth in the hotel bar and takes care of everything while you enjoy a drink and a luxury biscuit – no hanging around a reception desk or queuing. Though the hotel was full this was our experience throughout – always a staff member nearby to help, and often two or three.
Room: Grand Deluxe, featuring twin double beds and an expansive bathroom and kitchen area. It looked out towards Kyoto’s famous Kamo River, with a dining table in the window and a comfy sofa along one wall.
READ MORE: Viva’s Dining Out Editor, Jesse Mulligan, takes his family to Tokyo
Price: From around $2000 per night
What’s so good about this place? The architecture is incredible – the designer apparently lived in Kyoto for six months before even picking up his pencil, just to try and understand the unique local sensibility and context.
Every inch is considered and beautiful, from the feature bonsai trees, to the zen garden, to the 100-piece art collection, to the water feature that mimics the sound of the river as you approach the front doors. Natural light and signature scents make the hotel’s public spaces a joy to linger in.
Staff at all levels are trained intensively but their natural personalities spill out too. One staff member overheard me mention my wife’s upcoming birthday and on the big day Victoria arrived at breakfast to a gift of freshly baked Madeleines, then another platter in our room that evening. Optional activities like escorted bike rides and Japanese sweet-making made us feel like we were getting an insider’s guide to the city.
What’s in the neighbourhood? You’re a 10-minute walk from downtown attractions like Nishiki Market, and right on the river with walking tracks for miles in both directions. The area is exceptionally safe at all hours, with a number of recommended restaurants, bars, and boutique shops nearby. The hotel is right next to a bridge which leads to an older part of town and, eventually, Gion – Kyoto’s ancient and famous geisha district.
Food and drink: Our traditional (and huge) Japanese breakfast was a daily highlight – rice porridge with miso soup, pickles, and a bento box full of regional delights – from grilled salmon to fresh sesame tofu. There’s an “American” option too, with off-the-chart pastries by French patisserie Pierre Herme (he had a pop-up macaron shop next to reception while we were staying).
A Michelin-quality Japanese restaurant Mizuki offers four different cuisine concepts within one space, and there is an excellent Italian restaurant option too. A popular high tea service operates in the afternoon (and is a great way to enjoy the hotel if your budget doesn’t quite stretch to staying there).
The bed: There’s 600 thread count sheets and plenty of room to move, with two double beds pushed together on request for couples.
A room with a view? To say the least. The hotel’s own gardens are beautiful enough, but beyond them you can see the city’s own green foliage and of course the river itself. A table in the window makes the most of this outlook, and became a natural place to gravitate to with a pot of green tea or perhaps a gin and tonic as the sun went down.
Noise: Set well back from a quiet road, the hotel is completely silent except for the water feature and, on one memorable occasion, a live pianist on the basement floor which filled the open plan public spaces with beautiful music right on cocktail hour.
Value for money: Japan’s whole accommodation sector is pretty challenging right now from a value perspective – high tourism and a low-value yen are combining to push up rack rates across the board.
But if you are looking at a very high-end hotel there is plenty of value to find here: the free concierge service in particular is an invaluable way to save time and money, with a dedicated team who work hard and fast to research what you’re looking for, secure a booking or negotiate in Japanese on your behalf (most Kyoto restaurants are “reservation only” so the concierge is a lifesaver).
Exercise facilities: There’s a very well-equipped gym just next to a sauna and pool area, all on the basement level. It’s a dark and serene space, and more than once I found my missing wife in there, blissfully sipping a glass of water and reading a book.
Sustainability: A note on the bar menu said “this menu paper is made by reusing discarded or inedible rice”. Aside from some colourful (and visible) initiatives like this, the hotel is part of a wider programme to hit ambitious environmental goals (aligned with the UN’s sustainable development goals) by 2025.
A Community Footprints programme supports sustainability initiatives at a global and local level. Carbon and water usage (per room) is measured and listed on the hotel website.
Accessibility: Ramp access all the way from the street entry to the lifts, with wide self-opening doors. A very high staff-to-customer ratio means there is always someone nearby to assist if necessary in public areas, while rooms are fitted with around two dozen accessibility features, from bathtub grab rails to roll-in showers to flashing door knockers.
Perfect for: High-end travellers with a taste for the very best.
Would I return? In a heartbeat.
Contact: ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/ukyrz-the-ritz-carlton-kyoto/overview